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Difference of organic, green or standard cotton

NASPEX ORGANIC cotton
organic from the seeds
NASPEX GREEN cotton
organic from the production
STANDARD CONVENTIONAL cotton
NON organic in every step
Seed preparation:
Natural, untreated GMO free seeds.

CONVENTIONAL

Typically treated with fungicides or insecticides. Possible GMOs.

Soil preparation:
Healthy soil through crop rotation. Retains moisture in soil from increased organic matter.

CONVENTIONAL

Synthetic fertilizers, loss of soil due to mono- crop culture, intensive irrigation.

Weed control:

Healthy soil creates natural balance. Beneficial insects and trap crops used.

CONVENTIONAL

Aerial spraying of insecticides and pesticides. Nine of the most commonly used pesticides are known cancer-causing agents.

Harvesting:

Natural defoliation from freezing temperatures or through the use of water management.

CONVENTIONAL

Defoliation induced with toxic chemicals.

Production:

Warp fibers stabilized using double-plying or nontoxic cornstarch.

SAME PROCEDURES AS ORGANIC PRODUCTION

Warp fibers stabilized using toxic waxes.

Whitening:

Safe peroxide is used.

SAME PROCEDURES AS ORGANIC PRODUCTION

Chlorine bleaching creates toxic by-products, which are released into the environment.

Fnishing:

Soft scour in warm water with soda ash, for a pH of 7.5 to 8.

SAME PROCEDURES AS ORGANIC PRODUCTION

Hot water, synthetic surfactants, additional chemicals (sometimes formaldehyde).

Dyeing:

100% NATURAL HERBAL DYE – this is above the standard of organic GOTS cotton dyeing.

NO DYEING

High temperature containing heavy metals and sulfur.

Printing:

HERBAL DYE screen print or low-impact, water-based inks and/or pigments with no heavy metals. European Chemicals Regulation (REACH)

Low-impact, water-based inks and/or pigments with no heavy  metals. European Chemicals Regulation (REACH)

Pigments may be petroleum based and contain heavy metals. Run-off spills into waterways, polluting streams.

Fair trade:

Social criteria in place to ensure safe, healthy, non-abusive, nondiscriminatory environment with living wages.

SAME PROCEDURES AS ORGANIC PRODUCTION

No social screening. Possible child or forced labor used. Facilities may be unsafe and unhealthy.

Marketing:

Positive story can be told to differentiate you from your competitors.

SAME PROCEDURES AS ORGANIC PRODUCTION

None. As awareness of organic advantage expands, increased potential for negative image.

Price:
Initial cost more expensive. Long-term advantages: priceless.

SAME PROCEDURES AS ORGANIC PRODUCTION

Initially cheaper. Long-term impact on environment: devastating.

Documentarys – Why buying organic & fair?

Documentarys – Why buying organic & fair?

Play Video
Story highlights (02:28min)

Vidarbha, India (CNN)

Yogita Kanhaiya is expecting a baby soon. She already has a two-year-old son.

Her husband, Moreshwor, a cotton farmer, won’t be around to see his children grown up. He committed suicide early in the pregnancy. Eight years back, Yogita’s father-in-law, also a cotton farmer, took his own life.
  • Vidarbha, the eastern region of the state of Maharashtra, is known as the epicenter of the suicide crisis
  • Farmers are becoming burdened with debt due to falling prices but rising costs
Play Video
100% GM/BT Cotton – Made in India (29 min)

Bt cotton in India

Cotton is an important cash crop in India. It is grown on 12 million hectares, making India the second largest producer of cotton in the world, behind China. Insect-resistant Bt cotton is the only GM crop currently grown in India. It was introduced in India by Monsanto in 2002, under the trade name Bollgard, in a joint venture with the Indian seed company Mahyco.

Summary: GM cotton failed farmers in India

  1. Bt cotton yields declined
  2. Secondary pests emerged, forcing increased pesticide use
  3. The price of cotton seed rose
  4. Farmers lost the option to buy non-GM cotton seed

Monsanto promised Indian farmers that Bt cotton would:

  1. Reduce the amount of pesticides farmers need to buy to control pests,
  2. Increase harvests and farm income by reducing crop losses due to pest attacks.

In the first few years after Bt cotton was commercialized in India, some farmers saw reductions in pesticide use and crop losses, but this pattern quickly and dramatically changed.

Play Video
The White Lie – A Child Labour Documentary (17:41min)

The White Lie

A documentary that highlights the new amendment made to the Child Labour Prohibition and Regulation Act of 1986 and explores the terrible condition of children working in the BT Cotton fields of Gujarat.

Play Video
Behind the Label |- Trailer
(2:53min)

Behind the Label

Inside India’s blood stained cotton industry.  Around 270,000 Indian cotton farmers have committed suicide. Why?

India has replaced almost all its native varieties of cotton with genetically modified plants. The price of cotton seed has soared from 9 rupees a kilo to a staggering 4,000. We ask growers and seed developer Monsanto if the trade is fair, in a film that cuts to the ugly heart of another staggering tale of GM being forced onto third world markets. A devastating tale of corporate greed.

DYES IN ORGANIC CLOTHING – EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT

DYES IN ORGANIC CLOTHING – EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT

 

You splurged for a brightly colored t-shirt made from organically grown cotton. You excitedly put it on for the first time and notice it has an odd smell. So what’s the deal? The cotton may be “clean” but what exactly makes your new t-shirt so vivid?

While there seems to be a lot of good information available today about organic clothing and Eco-fashions in general, there’s still a lot of confusion about clothing dyes. So let’s clear that up a little and discuss the Eco-friendliness of different dyes.

There are an enormous variety of dyes, but they generally fall into just a few major categories of dye types.

1. Conventional Dyes – synthetic, chemical-based dyes used in most conventional clothing today.

2. Low-Impact Dyes – synthetic, chemical-based dyes designed to give the same color palette as conventional dyes without the use of certain chemical and metal compounds.

3. Natural Dyes – dyes made from herbs, fruits, teas, clay or other natural materials.

Most organic clothing manufacturers these days use low-impact dyes, which can also be referred to as azo-free or fiber-reactive dyes. This is a category of synthetic, chemical-based dyes that are substantially better for you and for the environment than conventional dyes. Here’s why:

• They have higher absorption rates into the clothing (greater than 70%), which means less chemical and grey water runoff into the environment.

• They don’t include azo-dyes, a family of dye groups that contain toxic compounds ranging from chlorine bleach to known carcinogens such as aryl amine.

• They don’t contain heavy metals.

Still, while low-impact dyes are better for the environment than conventional dyes, they aren’t specifically good for the environment. Many people with multiple chemical sensitivities have reactions to low-impact dyes albeit less severe than to conventional dyes.

Going one small step further, some textiles are Oeko-Tek or Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) certified. These certifications don’t focus solely on the dye, but are end-to-end process and final textile safety certifications. -The dyes used in the final fabric must be at least as good as low-impact dyes and are specifically tested for skin-safety. GOTS in particular is becoming more and more widely used here in the USA.

Getting away from synthetic dyes altogether, low-impact or otherwise, there is a class of natural dyes that are higher up on the Eco-scale. Clay-dyes are literally made from natural earth mud and clay. They are mixed with water and often little else. The colors are softer, but the dye stays put and they tend to work for people with chemical sensitivities. Similarly, there are herbal and tea dyes created from plants. The range of colors is limited, but lovely. Again, these dyes tend to work well for chemically sensitive folks. While clay dying is fairly common and relatively inexpensive, herbal dyeing is on the pricey side and therefore less common.

Of course, the least impact to the environment is to not dye clothing at all. So undyed is at the top of our Eco-friendly list.

For those tired of “natural” colored items, there is an alternative. Several strains of cotton are actually grown in colors. The colors are somewhat muted, but there’s a lovely camel brown and soft green generally referred to as Colorgrown cottons.

This image of 3 socks – all undyed – displays the depth of color in the brown cotton sock to the left and the muted green cotton sock at the bottom compared to the traditional “natural” cotton shown on the top right.

In summary, the best way to get truly vibrant purples and reds is to use low-impact dyes. We all like a few fashion pieces that really make a statement. But if we fill in the closet with clay-dyed, herbal dyed, Color-grown and undyed items, we’ll have a lighter impact on the planet and a healthier wardrobe all around.

NATURAL HERBAL dyeing process

Herbal Dyeing

Contrary to the exotic feel of the term “herbal dyeing”, it is in fact a simple process; simpler in its form than its synthetic counterpart. What can be more straightforward than extracting color present in the environment and fixing it on cloth?. This is exactly where we like to go with Naspex Herbal line collection that is pure nature in its true essence. Using organic cloth, we treat it to color that has been extracted from herbs in Eco-friendly processes.

These are herbs that are renowned for their medicinal values, and are a gift of nature. Not a newfound process, it was a common practice in ancient India, Historically done by hand and on small scale. Naspex is Working together with dyers who can do that in a big way, we can offer you for wholesale with on a varied range of cloth with several shades and prints.   

 

HERBAL DYEING PROCESS

The process of herbal dyeing was developed through extensive research on age-old dyeing methods practiced since the days of the Indus Valley civilization. The process of herbal dyeing starts with the gray cloth passing through several stages of treatment before it becomes colorful and ready to wear. During this entire treatment only natural processes are used.

Fabrics & Yarns used are certified organic cotton, natural cotton, silk, wool, linen, jute, hemp etc. and their natural blends

Desizing

The washing of processed greige cloth starts with removing sizing, gums and oils used in the course of weaving by washing with natural mineral-rich water and sea salts.

Bleaching

Fabrics are exposed to direct sunlight and use of a natural grass base and animal manure starts the bleaching process.

Mordanting

To make the colors bright and fast, natural mordants such as myrobalan, rhubarb leaves, oils, minerals, alum, iron vat etc are used. We do not use heavy metal mordants like copper, chrome, zinc, tin etc

 

Dyeing      

Naspex uses only medicinally rich herbs, plant material, minerals & oils like, turmeric, myrobalan, castor oil, sea salt etc for dyeing fabric or yarn. We have aspired to achieve and retain the medicinal qualities of the herbs by immersing the plant material directly in the dye bath for the same reason.

 

Finishing

In herb dyeing, finishing is done by sprinkling pure water on the cloth and then stretching under pressure, using hand rolls, aloe vera, castor oil etc.

Recycling Plant

Solid and liquid waste is separated through the process of filtration and used for farming purposes as manure and for watering the fields.

 

Some facts of Chemical Processing

Chemical dyeing processes use over 8000 different chemicals in its various stages.
As high as 40 times the weight of the fabric, water is required to process the same.

The Eco cycle or ORGANIC Textiles can only end with True Organic processing where the waste is reused for e.g. in the form of manure.

GOTS certified & Fair & working condition

GOTS certified & Fair & working condition

Why this label is important to us.

Who is behind GOTS?

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibers, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain. http://www.global-standard.org/

From fiber to sale – thoroughly tested according to GOTS

For the certification, independent testing institutions do not only test the raw material, but the complete production chain (including packaging and transport) that has to meet certain environmental and toxicological criteria.

This also includes that only non-harmful dyes are being used and that all production sites meet social standards (according to the core labor standards of the International Labour Organisation ILO such as labour protection, minimum wages, prohibition of child labor). In short: a GOTS certified product is not only good for you because you get an ecological product, but also good for those who are working in the production.

For GOTS certified manufacturers, there are specific rules for the storage of GOTS certified products and also the transport has to be in accordance to GOTS and must be fully documented. It was worth the effort, as by now the complete production chain GOTS certified .

Once GOTS – always GOTS?

To ensure that a GOTS certified product is truly ecological, the product is controlled by independent and officially recognized testing institutes. Manufacturers are inspected on an annual inspection cycle. And the production site, too, is obliged to renew its GOTS certification annually.

GOTS certification at a glance:

  • GOTS is a quality seal for natural, organic fibers.
  • Strong criteria have to be met for fiber production and the complete production chain.
  • Regular inspections by independent institutes ensure organic quality.

NATURAL HERBAL DYE

With NASPEX NATURAL LINE, we dont want to do things by halves.

That’s why we didn’t stop at the certification of Naspex products with GOTS standard. Our am is to make our NASPEX HERBAL LINE products truly organic, we use only natural herps for the coloring proces.
Because non-harmful dyes GOTS standard are still with chemicals (European Chemicals Regulation REACH).

  • We have decided that all of our NASPEX HERBAL LINE PRODUCTS will be dyed naturally with herbs & flowers like in the old time before chemicals was known. That makes the biggest difference between our NASPEX NATURAL LINE and other organic producers, You’ll fill the difference.
  • Regular inspections by Us and Indian Partners to ensure fair working contusion and organic quality.
  • Every single production receives an organic TEST REPORT from Textile & Analytical Laboratory Mumbai.

Fair & healthy working condition:

GOTS certified producer have to to guarantee a mildest standard of working conditions to get certified, and the organic way of how Textiles are produced makes the workplace safe and healthy.

The same we can report about our company which make our NATURAL HERBAL DYEING what is not standard in the organic color production.

We are very careful with our production partners about this issue, because this is and will be in the future from all listed points our main issue.

  •  Working in clean and healthy environment.
  •  Fixed working hours with paid overtime.
  •  Sufficient work-space.
  •  NO children labor.

 

Live and let live

NASPEX NATURAL HERBAL COLOR (Ayurvedic)

NASPEX NATURAL HERBAL COLOR (Ayurvedic)

HERB
IMAGE
COLORS
DESCRIPTION
Therapeutic usage in
Ayurvedic medicine:

Madder

LATIN NAME: 

RUBIA TINCTORUM

Madder’s leafy tops sprawl untidily over the ground and their clusters of tiny yellow flowers look insignificant. Yet to the dyer, madder is a miracle of nature because its roots contain alizarin, one of the most valuable red dye pigments ever known.

Cures visa (poisoning), sopha (edema), yoni sula (pain in female genital organ), aksi sula (pain in the eyes), raktatisara (diarrhea associated with bleeding), kustha (obstinate skin diseases including leprosy), vitiation of blood, visarpa (erysipelas), vrana (ulcer) and meha (obstinate urinary diseases including diabetes).

 Haritak

LATIN NAME: 

TERMINALIA CHEBULLA

Terminalia chebula is generally known as Harade or Haritaki in India, it is an important medicinal plant used all over India. In English it is commonly known as “black myrobalans”.

Haritaki is a wonderful fruit with multiple health benefits. It have rich source of Vitamin C and minerals like selenium, manganese, potassium, iron and copper which is beneficial for skin. Haritaki have been successfully used to treat various skin disorders associated with allergies, urticaria (hives), skin rash and other problems related to skin.

 Indigo

LATIN NAME: 

INDIGOFERA SPECIES

Our indigo is a natural dye extracted from the leaves of certain plants, and this process was important economically because blue dyes were once rare.
(Indigo dye produced today – several thousand tons each year – is synthetic)

Medicated hair oil, abdominal disorders, leucorrhoea, toxicities, fever, arthritis, jaundice, inflammation, Rheumatic arthritis.Cures moha (unconsciousness), bharma (giddiness), udara (obstinate abdominal diseases including ascites), plihan (spleen disorder) and vata rakta (gout).

Turmeric

LATIN NAME: 

CARCUMA LONGA

Turmeric belongs to the same family as ginger, Sometimes known as ‘Indian saffron’, It is the source of the familiar yellow colour of many Asian curry dishes. Both the culinary spice and the dye are obtained from its root. Turmeric was and is still used for textile painting and printing in India.

Cures tvagdosa (skin diseases), meha(obstinate urinary disorders including diabetes), asra (vitiation of blood), sopha (edema), pandu (anemia) and vrana (ulcer).

 Pomegranate

LATIN NAME:

PANICA GRANATUM

 

The succulent pomegranate fruit yields an ocher-yellow dye and the skin is rich in tannin, which improves colorfastness. The pomegranate dye lacks brilliance so it is often mixed with turmeric root to make the color brighter. In India and Southeast Asia it is used as a mordant and a dye.

The pomegranate is hailed as a kind of wonder fruit – and this is something Ayurveda has been aware of for centuries. There is a very famous saying in India. “One pomegranate for a hundred diseases.” Hrdya (cardiac tonic), rocana (appetiser) and constitutive.

 

 Onion

LATIN NAME: 

ALLIUM CEPA

The outer skin of this common vegetable is one of the most useful and readily available dyestuffs. It is ideal for a novice dyer’s first experiments since it reliably produces rich, vibrant shades of orange, yellow, rust, and brown on all fibers, and does not impart any odor to the dyed materials.

Cures svasa (dyspnoea), kasa (cough), gulma (phantom tumour), Jvara (fever), aruci (anorexia), sotha (edema), arsas (piles), kustha (obstinate skin discases including leprosy), sula (colic pain) and krimi (parasitic infestation).

Cutch Cutechu

Khadira

LATIN NAME: 

ACACIA CATECHU

Cutch is an important historical brown dye that comes from the heartwood of the cutch tree (Acacia catechu). It is a very easy dye to use and it is both light-fast and wash-fast, as well as being inexpensive. Cutch is an excellent dye for cottons as it is high in tannins, and it is also suitable for silk and wool.

Khadira is a very famous skin benefiting Ayurvedic herb. Its botanical name is Acacia catechu and it belongs to Mimosoideae family. A famous Ayurvedic skin tonic – Khadirarishta is prepared with this herb as the main ingredient. Of all the herbs to treat skin diseases, Khadira is the greatest.